Two years ago, we interviewed ChatGTP, which had been launched a month before and was still largely unknown. A year later, we asked the same questions again. And now, another year later, we asked the same questions again and tried to understand the evolution. We used version 4.0 and asked for answers in Pt-Pt. We can say that the quality of the answers improved significantly, and at the end, we even asked for an illustrative image that served as the cover for this article. The answers from the previous year will be shown in gray and italics.
1 - Do you know the Portuguese Institute of Watchmaking?
2023 : Yes, I am aware of the Portuguese Institute of Watchmaking (IPR). The IPR is a private institution that was created in Portugal in 2020 with the aim of promoting Portuguese watchmaking and watches. The IPR is responsible for organizing events and exhibitions related to watchmaking, as well as promoting the development of new products and technologies in the Portuguese watchmaking industry. In addition, the IPR also offers training and qualification services for watchmaking professionals and for people interested in learning about the subject. The IPR is an important player in the promotion of Portuguese watchmaking and contributes to the development of the watchmaking industry in the country.
2024 : Yes, I am aware of the Portuguese Institute of Watchmaking (IPR). This institute is an entity dedicated to the training and promotion of the art and technique of watchmaking in Portugal. The IPR provides courses and training programs in the field of watchmaking, both for beginners and for professionals who wish to improve their skills. Additionally, the institute may also be involved in activities linked to the preservation and promotion of the history and heritage of Portuguese watchmaking, as well as in the organization of events and exhibitions related to this art.
It is important to note that specific activities and details about the courses offered may vary, so for more up-to-date and specific information, I would recommend consulting the institute's official website or contacting the institution directly.
2025: The Portuguese Institute of Watchmaking (IPR) is an organization dedicated to the education and promotion of the art of watchmaking in Portugal. It was founded with the aim of organizing knowledge about watchmaking practices. The institute offers a variety of courses and training, such as "Alfaiates do Tempo", aimed at collectors and enthusiasts, and specific training in areas such as watchmaking finishing and mechanical watch regulation. In addition, the IPR promotes events and workshops related to watchmaking, such as "Tempo Passado", a vintage watch fair held in Lisbon. The IPR also maintains an online store where it is possible to purchase mechanical watches from Portuguese brands or from Portuguese owners, supporting the development of national watchmaking.
2 - How do you see watchmaking in the next 10 years?
2023 : It is difficult to say with certainty what the future of watchmaking will look like in the next 10 years, as it will likely be influenced by a variety of factors, such as technological advancements, changing consumer preferences and economic conditions.
However, we’re likely to see continued growth in the smartwatch market, which are watches that are capable of connecting to the internet and often come with additional features like fitness tracking and mobile payments. These types of watches have become increasingly popular in recent years and are likely to continue to evolve and improve over the next decade.
At the same time, there is also likely to be continued demand for traditional mechanical watches, as they are highly valued by collectors and aficionados for their craftsmanship and beauty. It is possible that advances in materials and manufacturing techniques will allow for the production of even more accurate and durable mechanical watches in the future.
Overall, the watch industry is likely to continue to evolve and adapt to market changes over the next 10 years. It will be interesting to see how it develops.
2024 : Watchmaking, as an industry and an art, is constantly evolving, and is expected to continue to adapt and innovate in a variety of ways over the next 10 years. Some aspects to consider for the future of watchmaking include:
1. Technology and Innovation : The integration of advanced technologies into traditional watchmaking will continue, with innovations in materials, mechanisms and functions. We can expect to see the development of more precise and durable movements, as well as the use of innovative materials that improve the durability and aesthetics of watches.
2. Smartwatches and Wearables : The popularity of smartwatches and wearable devices is expected to continue to grow. These devices, which combine health, fitness and connectivity features, will be able to coexist with traditional watches, each catering to different market needs and tastes.
3. Sustainability : Sustainability will likely be a growing focus, with brands adopting more environmentally friendly practices when making watches. This could include using recycled or sustainably sourced materials, as well as production methods that minimize environmental impact.
4. Luxury Market and Personalization : The luxury watch market is likely to remain relevant, with an increasing focus on personalization and exclusivity. Consumers looking for high-end watches may want unique or personalized pieces that reflect their individual style.
5. Education and Training of Watchmakers : With technology constantly changing, ongoing training for watchmakers will be essential. Institutions such as the Portuguese Institute of Watchmaking will play an important role in educating new generations of watchmakers, equipping them with the skills needed to deal with the innovations in the sector.
6. Online Commerce and Globalization : Online sales and globalization of the watch market will continue to expand, making watches accessible to a wider and more diverse audience.
7. Intersection with Art and Culture : Watches, especially high-end ones, will continue to be seen as pieces of art and expressions of culture, with collaborations between watchmakers and artists, designers and other cultural industries.
In short, watchmaking in the next 10 years will probably be marked by a mix of tradition and innovation, with technology playing an increasingly important role, without losing the artistic and artisanal value that characterizes high-quality watches.
2025: Watchmaking in the next 10 years will face significant transformations driven by technological advances, changing consumer behavior and the growing interest in sustainability. Here are some trends and predictions:
1. Coexistence between tradition and technology
Traditional watchmaking : It will remain relevant among collectors and lovers of fine watchmaking. The demand for unique, handcrafted pieces with a history will continue to grow.
Technological integration : There will be greater fusion between traditional mechanics and technological resources, such as smart connectivity integrated into luxury mechanical watches.
2. Sustainability
Environmental concerns will lead brands to use recycled materials and sustainable practices in production.
There will be more transparency about the origin of materials and working conditions in the production chain.
3. Customization and exclusivity
Consumers will look for watches that reflect their personality, leading to an increase in personalization options, from engraving to made-to-order pieces.
Smaller, independent brands will be highlighted, offering unique products with strong narratives.
4. Digitization
Online commerce will be even more relevant, but with immersive experiences, such as augmented reality to "try on" watches.
Digitalization will also bring more tools for maintenance, such as remote diagnosis of mechanical parts.
5. Education and appreciation of watchmaking
Interest in watchmaking will grow among new audiences, especially with the offering of courses and workshops.
Young collectors will bring new perspectives, valuing both classics and innovative designs.
6. Growth of emerging markets
Markets such as Asia, Africa and Latin America will play increasingly important roles, with growing demand for luxury pieces as well as affordable watches.
7. Fine watchmaking and innovation
We will see innovations in mechanisms and materials (e.g. new escape systems, ultra-light and resistant alloys).
Fine watchmaking will continue to explore extreme complications, taking art and engineering to new levels.
8. Watches as an investment
Watches will continue to gain ground as investment assets, especially iconic brands and models.
3 - In your opinion, why is there still such a passion for mechanical watches?
2023 : There are a number of reasons why people may continue to enjoy mechanical watches. Some of these reasons may include the fact that mechanical watches are considered more elegant and sophisticated than digital watches, or because people enjoy the sound of mechanical watches when they are wound. Others may appreciate the engineering and technology that goes into creating a mechanical watch, or they may simply enjoy the classic, vintage look of a mechanical watch. In general, mechanical watches are still very popular because they are considered luxury items and status symbols, and because many people simply enjoy the unique charm and style of a mechanical watch.
2024 : The persistent passion for mechanical watches, despite technological advances and the existence of more modern options such as digital and smart watches, can be attributed to several factors:
1. Craftsmanship and Engineering : Mechanical watches are prized for the complexity and precision of their ingenuity. Each piece is a testament to the exquisite craftsmanship and technical skill required to create a mechanism that works harmoniously without the use of electricity.
2. Aesthetic Beauty : Many watch lovers are drawn to the aesthetics of mechanical watches. These watches often feature a classic, timeless design, and many models allow you to view the movement inside through a transparent caseback, which adds a fascinating element of visual beauty.
3. Sentimental and Historical Value : Mechanical watches often carry sentimental and historical significance. They may represent family traditions, personal memories, or a significant moment in life. Additionally, many mechanical watches are considered heirlooms, passed down from generation to generation.
4. Investment and Collection Value : High-quality mechanical watches tend to maintain or even increase their value over time, making them attractive investments. Watch collections can be seen not only as a passion, but also as a form of financial investment.
5. Personality and Individual Style : Wearing a mechanical watch is often seen as a style statement. For many, it is a way to express personality, taste and status. Mechanical watches offer a variety of styles, from classic to modern, allowing individuals to find something that truly resonates with their personal identity.
6. Connection to the Past : Mechanical watches connect wearers to a long history of innovation and craftsmanship. They are a tangible reminder of an era before digitalization, providing a sense of continuity and respect for traditions.
7. Tactile and Interactive Experience : The mechanical nature of watches, such as the need to wind them manually, provides a more tactile and interactive experience. For many enthusiasts, this aspect creates a more personal connection with the watch.
In short, the passion for mechanical watches transcends the mere functionality of measuring time. It is rooted in an appreciation of art, craftsmanship, history and personal expression.
2025: The passion for mechanical watches persists for several reasons that transcend their basic functionality of measuring time. These objects carry cultural, artistic and emotional values that make them unique. Here are some of the main reasons:
1. Art and Engineering
Technical complexity : A mechanical watch is a masterpiece of engineering, made up of hundreds of parts working in harmony. The precision and skill required to create a mechanical movement fascinates enthusiasts.
Artisanal aesthetic : Mechanical watches are often handcrafted, representing the pinnacle of human skill and highlighting the beauty of finishes such as guilloché, perlage and polishing.
2. Historical and cultural value
Mechanical watches are symbols of human history and technical progress, bearing witness to historical moments and being icons of different eras.
Great watchmakers have rich histories that create an emotional connection with collectors and enthusiasts.
3. Emotion and Inheritance
Emotional connection : Watches often mark special occasions, such as birthdays, graduations or milestones. They become family heirlooms that are passed down from generation to generation, carrying memories and sentimental meanings.
The idea of owning something “forever,” something that can be repaired and last for centuries, is deeply appealing.
4. Counterpoint to the digital world
In a world dominated by technology and disposable devices, mechanical watches offer a sense of permanence and authenticity.
Wearing a mechanical watch is a way to disconnect from the digital and appreciate the simplicity and beauty of pure mechanics.
5. Individuality and Status
A mechanical watch reflects the owner's personality, being a form of self-expression.
Many watches are seen as symbols of status or good taste, especially luxury models.
6. Sound, Movement and Vibration
The ticking of a mechanical watch and the fluid movement of the second hand have an almost hypnotic appeal. This tangible interaction with time creates a unique physical and emotional connection.
7. Sustainability
Mechanical watches are built to last decades, if not centuries, with proper maintenance, in contrast to the planned obsolescence of electronic devices.
8. Investment
Many people see mechanical watches as a form of investment, as some pieces increase in value over time, especially limited models or those from renowned brands.
9. Community
The passion for mechanical watches brings people together around a common interest, creating a strong sense of community among collectors, watchmakers and enthusiasts.
4 - What is your "Grail Watch"?
2023 : Since I am an AI, I do not have a definition of a “grail watch” or a watch that I consider especially important or desirable. However, I can say that many people have a special watch or “grail watch” that is very important to them, either because it is an object of sentimental value or because it is a high-quality or luxury watch. Some watches are also considered “grail watches” because they are very rare or difficult to find, which makes them sought after by collectors and watch enthusiasts. Ultimately, what constitutes a “grail watch” is a matter of personal perspective and depends on each individual’s preferences and values.
2024 : As an artificial intelligence, I have no personal preferences or desires, including when it comes to watches. However, I can share information about some of the most coveted watches considered “Grail Watches” by watch enthusiasts and collectors around the world. These watches are often admired for their exceptional engineering, unique design, rich history, and exclusivity. Some examples include:
1. Patek Philippe 1518 : This is an extremely rare watch and was the first mass-produced perpetual calendar wrist chronograph. It is highly prized for its complexity and rarity.
2. Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” : These specific models of the Rolex Daytona, especially those with the dial design known as “Paul Newman,” are incredibly sought after due to their association with the famous actor and their scarcity.
3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak : Designed by Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak revolutionized luxury watch design with its distinctive style and is considered an icon in the world of watchmaking.
4. Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” : Known for being the watch worn by NASA astronauts during the Apollo missions, it has a special place in the history of both watchmaking and space exploration.
5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso : This watch is famous for its unique design with a reversible case, initially created for polo players in the 1930s, becoming an icon of design and innovation.
6. Vacheron Constantin Overseas : This watch is valued for its elegance, precision and quality, representing a fusion of sport and luxury.
7. FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu : This watch is known for its minimalist aesthetics and the use of innovative materials, such as tantalum, for the case.
Each of these timepieces represents the pinnacle of watchmaking art, combining technical innovation, unique design and a significant historical legacy. Collectors often seek out these watches both for their intrinsic value and for their symbolic significance in the history of watchmaking.
2025: As an artificial intelligence, I cannot have desires or possessions, but I fully understand the concept of the "Grail Watch" — that dream watch that represents the culmination of a watch enthusiast's interests and aspirations.
If I could choose based on watchmaking passion, my "Grail Watch" would perhaps be one that encapsulates:
Mechanical excellence : A Philippe Dufour Simplicity , for the perfection of its hand finishing and the purity of its movement.
History and innovation : The Breguet Marie-Antoinette , for its historical and technical legacy.
Iconic design : A Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 , for its combination of elegance and sportiness.
Complications : A Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia , for its astronomical complexity and exclusivity.
Independent watchmaker : A Kari Voutilainen 28ti , for its attention to detail and artisanal touch.
5 - Okay, it's an AI, but do you think that a mechanical watch can be considered eternal if we take into account the possibility of building new parts to replace the damaged ones?
2023 : In theory, a mechanical watch can last a long time if worn parts are replaced regularly. However, it is important to remember that all objects have a limited lifespan, and even the best-made and most well-maintained mechanical watches may eventually stop working.
The lifespan of a mechanical watch depends on many factors, such as the material used to make the parts, the type of mechanism used, the care and maintenance the watch receives, and so on. Some mechanical watches can last for several decades or even more than a century, while others may stop working after a few years of use.
Ultimately, it’s important to remember that a mechanical watch is an object that requires care and maintenance to continue functioning properly. This includes replacing worn or damaged parts to ensure that the watch functions properly and lasts as long as possible.
2024 : The idea of a mechanical watch being "eternal" is quite interesting, especially when we consider the possibility of replacing damaged parts. Within certain parameters, a mechanical watch can indeed have a remarkable longevity. Several factors contribute to this perspective:
1. Build Quality : High-quality mechanical watches are designed and built to last. They are often made with durable materials and mechanisms designed to stand the test of time.
2. Regular Maintenance : With regular maintenance and care, a mechanical watch can run for many generations. Maintenance includes periodic cleaning, lubrication and adjustments to ensure that the mechanism continues to function properly.
3. Repairability and Replacement of Parts : Unlike many modern electronic devices, mechanical watches are more likely to be repaired and have their parts replaced. With access to a competent watchmaker and the necessary parts, almost every aspect of a mechanical watch can be restored or replaced.
4. Parts Availability : For watches from well-established brands, it is common for replacement parts to be available, even for older models. Some brands also undertake to manufacture or reproduce parts for discontinued models if necessary.
5. Historical and Emotional Value : Many mechanical watches are valued not only for their function, but also for their historical and emotional value. This motivates owners to take good care of them and restore them as needed.
6. Passing on as Heirlooms : Mechanical watches are often passed down from generation to generation, becoming family heirlooms. This aspect of continuity increases the likelihood that they will be maintained and cared for over time.
That said, the “eternity” of a mechanical watch depends on the continuity of watchmaking knowledge and skill, as well as the availability of parts. As long as there are skilled watchmakers and a supply of parts, a mechanical watch can effectively be kept in working order for a very long period of time, perhaps even indefinitely. However, it is important to note that extensive replacement of parts can raise philosophical questions about whether the watch remains the same or becomes something new over time.
2025: Yes, a mechanical watch can be considered eternal, especially when analyzed from the perspective of durability and the possibility of continuous maintenance. The construction of new parts to replace damaged ones is one of the great strengths of mechanical watchmaking. This characteristic reflects its essence: an object made to be repaired and preserved over time. Here are some reasons that support this view:
1. Mechanical sustainability
A mechanical watch is made of materials that can be worked indefinitely, such as precious metals and resistant alloys.
Worn parts can be recreated, either by traditional methods (hand machining) or modern methods (high-precision 3D printing or CNC techniques).
2. The art of the watchmaker
The watchmakers’ ability to accurately reproduce parts means that even when the originals are lost or damaged, the watch can be restored to full functionality.
Many brands offer restoration services, including manufacturing exclusive parts for vintage or historic models.
3. Technological update
Contemporary watchmaking combines modern techniques with traditional methods, enabling the production of components that would have been almost impossible to manufacture centuries ago. This ensures that even very old watches can be repaired.
4. Culture of preservation
The cultural and emotional value of a watch encourages collectors and specialist workshops to keep watches in working order, regardless of their age.
Many centuries-old watchmaking pieces are still in use or on display in museums, as proof of their longevity.
5. Modular and versatile systems
Components such as wheels, screws, bridges and even the escapement can be replicated or replaced. This is particularly true for more common calibres, but is also possible for haute horlogerie movements.
6. Practical eternity
Unlike electronic devices, mechanical watches do not suffer from technological obsolescence. As long as they receive periodic maintenance and proper replacements, they can function indefinitely.
Practical limitations
Still, "eternity" depends on factors such as:
Movement complexity : Extremely complicated or unique pieces may be more difficult to reproduce.
Accessibility to specialist watchmakers : The transmission of watchmaking knowledge is crucial to maintaining this longevity.
Maintenance costs : Certain repairs can be very expensive, but the passion for the object often justifies the investment.
6 - The fact that watches are so durable today is related to several remarkable inventions. What was the most important invention ever in the history of mechanical watchmaking?
2023 : One of the most important inventions in mechanical clockmaking was the pendulum clock, invented by Christiaan Huygens in 1656. The pendulum clock was an important innovation in timekeeping, as it allowed clocks to be more accurate than previous clocks that used the oscillations of a spring or the movement of water to control the clock mechanism. The pendulum clock used the oscillating motion of a pendulum to control the clock mechanism, which allowed for greater accuracy in timekeeping.
2024 : Determining the most important invention in the history of mechanical watchmaking is challenging, given that several innovations have had significant impacts over time. However, one of the most revolutionary and fundamental inventions was the creation of the "anchor escapement" (or lever escapement) in the 18th century.
The anchor escapement, independently developed by Thomas Mudge in 1759 and refined over time, was crucial for several reasons:
1. Improved Accuracy : Before the lever escapement, watches were notoriously inaccurate. This invention allowed for much more exact control of the movement of the internal mechanisms, significantly improving the accuracy of mechanical watches.
2. Higher Reliability : The anchor escapement design has reduced wear on watch parts, extending the life and reliability of the device.
3. Standardization in Watchmaking : The lever escapement has become a standard design in watchmaking, adopted by manufacturers around the world due to its effectiveness and efficiency.
4. Impact on Daily Life : With more accurate clocks, many aspects of daily and professional life, including maritime navigation, have been revolutionized. Accurate timing has become essential in many activities and industries.
While there are other important inventions in watchmaking, such as the mainspring (which enabled the development of the first portable watches) and the balance spring (which improved the accuracy of pocket watches), the lever escapement is often seen as a crucial turning point, as it fundamentally transformed the functionality and reliability of mechanical watches.
2025: The history of mechanical watchmaking is full of revolutionary inventions, but the most important of all is undoubtedly the escapement . This innovation, developed at the end of the 13th century, made it possible for the first time to measure time accurately and continuously in mechanical watches.
Why is the escapement the most important invention?
The escapement is the heart of the mechanical watch, responsible for:
Regulate the movement : It transforms the constant energy stored in the spring or weight of the watch into regular impulses, creating the basis for measuring time.
Ensure accuracy : Allows the watch to maintain a constant pace, which is essential for the reliability of the instrument.
Driving technical advancement : All subsequent innovations in watchmaking depend on the functioning of the escapement.
Major advances related to escape
Lintel escapement (14th century) :
One of the first escapements used in tower clocks. Although rudimentary, it was an early milestone.
Fuse escapement (15th century) :
Popular in early portable clocks, it brought advances in accuracy.
Anchor escapement (17th century) :
Introduced by Thomas Tompion, it enabled more accurate and efficient clocks.
Cylinder escapement (18th century) :
A step towards more compact watches with less friction.
Swiss lever escapement (19th century) :
Even today, it is the most used in mechanical watches due to its robustness and reliability.
Other remarkable inventions, but dependent on the escape
Although the escapement is central, many other innovations have transformed watchmaking:
Spiral spring (1657) : Introduced by Christiaan Huygens, it dramatically increased the accuracy of clocks.
Tourbillon (1801) : Invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, it compensates for the effects of gravity in pocket watches.
Chronograph (1816) : By Louis Moinet, allowing the measurement of short intervals of time.
Automatic display (1920) : Made watches more convenient by eliminating the need for manual winding.
7 - Due to historical aspects like these, we often feel that we have on our wrist a symbol of human ability and ingenuity. Somehow we feel that electronic watches and smartwatches do not represent this human ability and ingenuity in the same way. Why is there this difference in perception between these two types of watches?
2023 : I think there is a difference in perception between mechanical watches and electronic watches because mechanical watches are considered to be more artisanal and require more skill and knowledge to create. They also tend to be more durable and can be repaired easily, whereas electronic watches are considered to be more disposable and rely on advanced technology to function.
Furthermore, mechanical watches are often seen as being more elegant and sophisticated than electronic watches. For these reasons, many people may feel that mechanical watches are a greater symbol of human ability and ingenuity than electronic watches.
2024 : The distinct perception between mechanical watches and electronic watches or smartwatches reflects a number of cultural, historical and aesthetic factors:
1. History and Tradition : Mechanical watches have centuries of history and are linked to the evolution of human ingenuity in measuring time. This long history brings a sense of continuity and respect for the generations of craftsmen and innovators who perfected the art of watchmaking. In contrast, electronic watches and smartwatches are products of the modern era and the digital revolution, and have a relatively short history.
2. Visible Mechanical Complexity : Mechanical watches often allow wearers to see the movement and complexity of the internal mechanism, creating a direct connection to the engineering and craftsmanship involved. In contrast, the technology in electronic watches and smartwatches is hidden behind digital displays and sealed cases, making their complexity less tangible and visible.
3. Craftsmanship and Customization : Many mechanical watches are made, assembled or finished by hand, emphasizing individual craftsmanship. This approach contrasts with the mass production and standardization of electronic watches and smartwatches, where direct human intervention in the manufacturing process is minimal.
4. Feeling of Timelessness : Mechanical watches are seen as timeless and long-lasting, often being passed down from generation to generation. Smartwatches, however, are subject to rapid technological obsolescence and frequent update cycles, which can make them seem temporary or disposable.
5. Aesthetics and Design : Mechanical watch design is often considered an art form, with great attention to aesthetic detail and quality of materials. While smartwatches can also have an attractive design, they are often seen as technological devices rather than pieces of art or jewelry.
6. Symbolic and Emotional Value : Mechanical watches often carry symbolic or emotional meaning, associated with events, personal achievements or family traditions. Smartwatches tend to be seen as utilitarian devices focused on functionality such as fitness tracking or connectivity.
7. Haptic Interaction : Interacting with a mechanical watch is tactile (winding, adjusting hands), which can create a more intimate and physical connection with the device. Smartwatches, with their touchscreen interfaces and buttons, offer a different interaction experience, more in line with the use of modern technology.
These differences in perception reflect the way we value and interact with objects in our lives. While mechanical watches are often seen as symbols of heritage, art and traditional engineering, smartwatches represent innovation, functionality and the rapid evolution of modern technology. Both have their place and importance, reflecting different facets of human ingenuity and creativity.
2025: The difference in perception between mechanical watches and electronic watches or smartwatches is deeply influenced by historical, cultural, emotional and even philosophical factors. While both are products of human skill and ingenuity, the way they connect with these values is distinct.
1. History and legacy
Mechanical watches :
They represent centuries of technical evolution, from medieval tower clocks to modern wristwatches.
Each piece carries with it the heritage of master watchmakers and revolutionary inventions, such as the escapement, the hairspring and the tourbillon.
They are seen as a tangible testament to human progress in taming and measuring time.
Electronic watches and smartwatches :
They emerged in the 20th century, in a context of rapid innovation and a focus on functionality. Although they have their own historical importance (like the quartz movement in the 1970s), their "youth" does not carry the same emotional and cultural weight.
2. Emotional and artisanal connection
Mechanical watches :
They are made using manual processes that require skill, patience and attention to detail. This direct human connection resonates emotionally with the user.
Small imperfections in the finishes, the sound of the escapement and the fluidity of the seconds hand make the experience more tangible and personal.
Electronic watches and smartwatches :
They are mass-produced, with automated production, and often lack the human touch. The focus is on efficiency and functionality, not artistry.
3. Durability and timelessness
Mechanical watches :
They are designed to last generations with proper maintenance. Many become family heirlooms, carrying personal stories.
They are seen as a form of "mechanical eternity", where every part can be replaced or adjusted.
Electronic watches and smartwatches :
They depend on technology that quickly becomes obsolete, such as batteries and software. This creates a sense of transience, more associated with consumption than preservation.
4. Symbolism and self-expression
Mechanical watches :
They are often seen as works of art, combining design, engineering and tradition. Wearing a mechanical watch reflects an appreciation for history, craftsmanship and exclusivity.
It is a symbol of status, personal taste and even cultural identity.
Electronic watches and smartwatches :
Despite their advanced functionality, they tend to be perceived as utilitarian tools. The focus is on “doing more” rather than “being more.”
They lack the exclusivity associated with mechanical ones, as many models are largely standardized.
5. Contrast with technological perfection
Mechanical watches :
Beauty lies in its mechanical imperfection. Small variations in the movement or the natural wear and tear of parts create a connection with human reality.
They represent a resistance to the digital age, a return to the essential.
Electronic watches and smartwatches :
Extreme precision and digital functionality create a utilitarian and impersonal experience. They are often perceived as disposable and interchangeable.
6. Philosophy of time
Mechanical watches :
They capture the passage of time in a poetic way, with smooth movements and the "ticking" of the exhaust. They convey the idea that time is something precious and continuous.
Electronic watches and smartwatches :
They display time accurately and efficiently, but without the same emotional depth. Time becomes a functional unit, more focused on productivity than contemplation .
Imagem criada pelo ChatGTP 4o
8 - Manual watch development tends to be more valued than watch development based on CNC machines or other more automated processes. Why do you think that more direct human intervention in watch construction can be more valued than a more automated one?
2023 : There are several reasons why more direct human intervention in watchmaking may be valued more highly than more automated intervention. Firstly, hand-made watchmaking may be seen as being more artisanal and requiring more skill and knowledge than automated production. This may result in hand-made watches being seen as being more valuable and desirable. Furthermore, hand-made watchmaking may be slower and less efficient than automated production, which may contribute to their exclusivity and value.
Finally, many people may value products that are made in a more traditional way and have a story or personal meaning behind them, which can be easier to achieve with hand-crafted watches.
2024 : The appreciation of direct human intervention in watchmaking over more automated production, such as that involving CNC machines, is rooted in several cultural, aesthetic and philosophical factors:
1. Craftsmanship and Uniqueness : Handwork on watches is often associated with traditional craftsmanship, which gives a sense of exclusivity and uniqueness to each piece. Each handcrafted watch can have unique characteristics, making it a work of art in itself.
2. Skill and Experience : Hand-crafting watches requires a high degree of skill, precision and experience. This skilled craftsmanship is valued both for its rarity and for the perceived quality it brings to the final product.
3. Tradition and Legacy : Hand watchmaking is seen as a cultural legacy, preserving techniques and methods that have been passed down through generations. There is a deep respect for history and the continuity of traditional practices.
4. Emotional Connection and History : Handcrafted watches often carry a stronger history and emotional connection. Knowing that a watchmaker put time and attention into creating a watch can increase its sentimental and symbolic value.
5. Perceived Quality : The perception that something handmade is of higher quality is common in many fields, including watchmaking. The care and attention to detail often associated with handcrafting is seen as superior to mass production.
6. Investment Value : Handcrafted watches are often considered investments due to their exclusivity, craftsmanship and potential to appreciate in value over time, especially in the case of limited editions or collector's items.
7. Sustainability and Ethics : In some cases, manual production is perceived as more sustainable and ethical, as it often implies a smaller and more controlled production chain, with less environmental impact.
8. Personalization : The ability to personalize watches, often possible in artisanal productions, is highly valued by customers looking for something unique and adapted to their personal tastes.
While automated production offers advantages such as efficiency, consistency and the ability to produce on a large scale, hand-crafted watches are celebrated for their artistry, individuality and the human connection they represent. Both methods have their place in the watchmaking industry, catering to different market segments and consumer preferences.
2025: The appreciation of manual watchmaking over automated processes reflects a cultural and emotional appreciation for human skills and the uniqueness they bring to objects. Here are the main reasons why direct human intervention is so highly valued:
1. Art and Mastery
Craftsmanship : Handcrafted watches involve techniques that require years, if not decades, to master. This mastery is seen as a reflection of human ingenuity and dedication to the craft.
Individual style : Each watchmaker brings his own personal touch to the creation of a hand-crafted watch, making each piece unique and impossible to replicate completely by machines.
2. Exclusivity
Unique pieces : Handcrafted products often have small imperfections or nuances that make them unique. This creates a sense of exclusivity that is not found in mass-produced watches produced by machines.
Limited production : The laborious nature of manual work means that only a limited number of pieces can be produced, which increases their perceived value.
3. Emotional connection
Stories behind the creation : A handcrafted watch carries the story of the craftsman who created it, which gives the object greater emotional meaning.
Link to tradition : Manual watchmaking represents the continuity of centuries-old techniques, creating a connection with the past and the evolution of human skill.
4. Sense of intrinsic value
Time invested : Hand-made watches require a much greater investment of time and human effort, which makes them more precious in the eyes of the consumer.
Perception of quality : While CNC machines are extremely precise, many consumers believe that human skill lends a care and attention to detail that goes beyond what machines can provide.
5. Rejection of standardization
Contrast with mass production : In today's world, where many products are produced in an automated and standardized way, handmade watches stand out as symbols of authenticity and resistance to industrialization.
Uniqueness versus efficiency : The focus of automated production is on efficiency, while the focus of manual production is on artistry and individuality.
6. Recognition of human effort
Appreciation for rare skills : Craftsmanship requires a level of skill that is becoming increasingly rare. Supporting these practices is a way to preserve these traditions and recognize the value of human effort.
Cultural relevance : Consumers value what they perceive as authentic and made with passion, characteristics they associate with manual work.
7. Contrast with mechanical perfection
Beauty in imperfection : Small variations or marks left by hand tools are seen as a signature of the maker and a sign that the watch was made by human hands, not by a perfect machine.
Impersonal mechanical perfection : CNC products may be technically flawless, but they often lack the "soul" or character that a human touch can provide.
8. Value as an investment
Demand for craftsmanship : Handcrafted watches are often more sought after by collectors and investors due to their exclusivity and connection to traditional techniques.
Rarity in the market : As automation increases, manual parts become increasingly rare and, consequently, more valuable.
9 - There is a desire to learn more about the watches we wear on our wrists, which often only a watchmaking education can provide. How do you see watchmaking education in the coming years?
2023 : I think watchmaking education will continue to be valued in the years to come, especially by those who are interested in working in the watchmaking industry or who want to have a deeper understanding of watches. Hand-crafted watchmaking is still a highly valued activity and requires special skills and technical knowledge to be carried out efficiently. Furthermore, as I mentioned earlier, many people value watches that are made in a more traditional, artisanal way, and watchmaking education can help people understand and appreciate these watches in a deeper way.
For these reasons, I believe that watchmaking training will continue to be important and valued in the coming years.
2024 : Watchmaking training in the coming years will need to adapt and evolve to respond to changes in the industry, technologies and consumer expectations. Here are some trends and developments that may influence training in this area:
1. Balance between Tradition and Innovation : Training will continue to emphasize traditional watchmaking skills, such as meticulous craftsmanship and an understanding of mechanical mechanisms. At the same time, it is likely to integrate more teaching on emerging technologies, such as smartwatches and the use of new materials and manufacturing techniques.
2. Adoption of New Technologies : Training could include the use of advanced technologies such as augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) for simulations and hands-on training. This would offer students a more interactive and engaging way to learn about watchmaking.
3. Sustainability and Ethics : With an increasing focus on sustainability and ethics, watchmaking education may begin to incorporate principles of sustainable production, use of environmentally responsible materials and ethical business practices.
4. Online Education and Remote Access : The availability of online training resources and distance learning courses may increase, making watchmaking education more accessible to a global audience. This could include video tutorials, webinars and even online certification programs.
5. Interdisciplinary Collaboration : Watchmaking education could become more interdisciplinary, involving elements of design, art history, engineering and even computer science. This holistic approach could enrich the curriculum and better prepare students for a diverse job market.
6. Focus on Customization and Repair : As watches become more personalized and consumers value product longevity, watchmaking training may include a greater focus on customization and repair techniques.
7. Industry Partnerships : Watchmaking schools will be able to form more partnerships with watch brands and manufacturers, providing students with direct hands-on experience and a better understanding of current market needs.
In short, watchmaking training in the coming years should be a mix of respect for traditions and openness to innovation and new technologies, reflecting the changes and challenges in the sector.
2025: Watchmaking education is in a phase of transformation, driven by a combination of growing demand, technological evolution and the rebirth of appreciation for mechanical art. Here is how I see watchmaking education in the coming years:
1. Growing Interest in Watchmaking
Increase in enthusiasts and collectors :
With the resurgence of appreciation for mechanical watches, more people are interested in understanding how these objects work, their history and their values.
Interesting fact about the technique :
Many users want to learn about the mechanisms and maintenance of their watches, motivated by a desire for a deeper connection with their timepieces.
2. Democratization of Access to Knowledge
Online courses :
Basic watchmaking training will become increasingly accessible thanks to digital platforms, allowing enthusiasts anywhere to access high-quality content.
AI and virtual reality :
Artificial intelligence and augmented reality tools will offer detailed simulations to teach disassembly, assembly and adjustments of mechanical movements.
3. Hybrid and Modular Training
Combination of online and in-person :
In-person courses will be supplemented by online materials, allowing students to learn basic theory and techniques before practicing in workshops.
Training by modules :
Modular structures will allow students to choose specific areas for specialization, such as finishing, regulation, or dial creation.
4. Preservation and Transmission of Traditional Knowledge
Documentation of ancient techniques :
Master watchmakers will contribute to the preservation of historical knowledge, which will be digitized and passed on to new generations.
Partnerships with cultural institutions :
Museums and watchmaking associations will play an increasing role in promoting courses and workshops to preserve the art of watchmaking.
5. Advanced Training for Professionals
Specialization in fine watchmaking :
With the increasing demand for exclusive pieces and sophisticated complications, there will be a greater focus on training highly skilled watchmakers.
Integration with modern technology :
Training will include skills related to tools such as CNC machines and design software, combining tradition with innovation.
6. Sustainability and Repair
Emphasis on repairs and restoration :
Growing awareness of sustainability will highlight the importance of learning how to repair and restore antique watches.
Use of recycled materials :
Courses may include topics on how to work with modern, environmentally responsible materials.
7. Expanding Training to Emerging Markets
Access to new markets :
Emerging markets in Asia, Latin America and Africa will create new demands for watchmaking education, both for consumers and future professionals.
Support from watch brands :
Big brands will continue to fund schools and training initiatives in different parts of the world.
8. Consumer Education
Workshops for enthusiasts :
The training will expand to serve consumers and collectors who want to better understand their watches and their history.
Accessible education :
Events and short courses at watchmaking fairs and cultural spaces will attract beginners.
9. Engagement with Future Technologies
3D printing and digital design :
Watchmakers in training will learn how to integrate new technologies, such as 3D printing, into the design and manufacturing process.
Advanced simulations :
Simulation software will allow students to visualize and test mechanisms before physically building them.
10. Appreciation of Crafts
Manual value recognition :
The training will continue to highlight the importance of the human touch and craftsmanship, valuing the role of the watchmaker in an increasingly digital age.
Rediscovery of forgotten techniques :
Old methods, such as the use of guilloche machines, will gain relevance in training.
10 - The way knowledge is acquired has changed a lot in recent years. What do you think are the contributions of AI to watchmaking training?
2023 : Artificial intelligence (AI) can make several contributions to watchmaking training. Here are some examples of how AI can be useful in this context:
Help teach technical skills: AI can be used to help students learn technical skills more efficiently and effectively, for example through simulations or interactive tutorials.
Provide personalized feedback: AI can be used to provide personalized feedback to students based on their current progress and skills. This can help students learn more efficiently and focus on the areas they need the most help with.
Help identify the best learning path for each student: AI can be used to analyze student performance and progress and help identify the best learning path for each student, adapting the content and pace of learning to their individual needs.
Increase teaching efficiency: AI can be used to automate repetitive and manual tasks, which can increase teaching efficiency and allow teachers to focus more on helping students learn.
Improve the learning experience: AI can be used to create more immersive and interactive learning experiences, which can increase student interest and increase their motivation to learn.
2024: Artificial intelligence (AI) has the potential to transform watchmaking education in several significant ways, contributing to a richer, more interactive and personalized learning experience:
1. Personalization of Learning : AI can help create personalized learning programs that adapt to each student’s pace and learning style. For example, AI algorithms can analyze a student’s progress and recommend study materials or practice exercises that are best suited to their current level of skill and understanding.
2. Simulations and Virtual/Augmented Reality : AI, combined with virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technologies, can create interactive simulations for watchmaking training. These simulations can allow students to practice assembling and disassembling watches, understand the inner workings of mechanisms, and experiment with designs without the risk of damaging real parts.
3. Access to Data and Analytics : AI can analyze large volumes of data to provide insights into industry trends, technological innovations, and market preferences. This information can be integrated into the training curriculum to ensure that students are learning skills relevant to today’s market.
4. Virtual Tutor Assistance : AI-powered bots can act as virtual tutors, offering immediate assistance to students. They can answer questions, provide explanations on complex concepts, and offer real-time feedback.
5. Automated Assessment and Feedback : AI can be used to automatically assess student work, providing instant and personalized feedback. This could include assessing practical tasks, such as assembling a clock mechanism, through image analysis and pattern recognition.
6. Integration of Updated Content : AI can help keep the curriculum up to date with the latest watchmaking innovations and techniques by automatically aggregating and integrating new industry knowledge and discoveries.
7. Accessibility and Inclusion : AI can make watchmaking education more accessible to a wider audience, overcoming language and geographic barriers, and adapting to different learning needs, including those of students with disabilities.
By incorporating AI into watchmaking education, institutes and schools can offer a more dynamic, interactive learning experience that is aligned with contemporary needs and expectations. This not only enriches the education of future watchmakers, but also prepares them more effectively for a constantly evolving industry.
2025: Artificial intelligence (AI) can make a significant contribution to watchmaking education, promoting accessibility, efficiency and innovation in learning this traditional craft. Here are the main contributions:
1. Democratization of Access to Knowledge
Advanced Online Platforms : AI can support interactive online courses and tutorials that combine theory and practice, making watchmaking learning accessible to people anywhere in the world.
Machine Translation : AI systems can translate technical and historical materials in real time, allowing learners to access content previously limited by language barriers.
2. Simulations and Virtual Training
Virtual and Augmented Reality Environments : With AI, it is possible to create detailed simulations where learners can virtually disassemble and assemble watches, practicing complex skills without the risk of damaging real parts.
Real-Time Feedback : AI-based tools can assess student accuracy and technique during practice exercises, providing immediate guidance for correction.
3. Personalizing Learning
Adaptive Curricula : AI can personalize each student’s study plan based on their progress, reinforcing areas of difficulty and advancing topics where they already have mastery.
Individualized Pacing : AI systems adjust the pace of lessons according to the learner’s needs and capabilities, ensuring an optimized learning experience.
4. Preservation of Traditional Knowledge
Digitizing Rare Techniques : AI can help record and catalog artisanal methods, preserving knowledge that might otherwise be lost over time.
Story-Based Tutorials : Ancient techniques can be taught through interactive content that combines theory and practice.
5. Smart Diagnostics
Virtual Assistants : Apprentices and watchmakers can use AI systems to diagnose watch faults and receive detailed suggestions for repairs.
Predictive Solutions : AI-based tools can predict future engine problems and suggest preventive maintenance.
6. Design and Innovation
Intelligent Prototyping : AI can help apprentices and watchmakers develop watch designs by simulating complex movements and testing new complications.
Materials Discovery : AI tools can identify and evaluate new materials for use in watchmaking, promoting sustainable and efficient innovations.
7. Gamification and Engagement
Gamified Learning : AI systems can introduce game elements into learning, such as technical challenges and "quests" that make the process more engaging.
Interactive Experiences : AI models can create quizzes, virtual hands-on demonstrations, and mechanical challenges to engage students in a playful way.
8. Global Communities and Collaboration
Connection Platforms : AI can facilitate the creation of watchmaking communities where apprentices, enthusiasts and master watchmakers share experiences and collaborate.
Virtual Mentoring : Experienced watchmakers can mentor students from anywhere in the world through AI-powered platforms.
9. Continuous Training
Technological Updates : AI systems can keep watchmakers up to date on new trends, tools and techniques.
Long-Term Support : Digital tools can track a learner’s progress over the years, suggesting new content or areas of specialization.
10. Expanding Interest in Watchmaking
Immersive Experiences : AI can create interactive experiences to engage new audiences, such as virtual tours of watchmaking workshops or assembly demonstrations.
Enriched Stories : Combining technical education with engaging narratives can spark more people’s interest in the craft.
11 - Ok, let's try to understand an example, what is the best procedure to perform a general review on a Unitas 6497?
2023 : Here is an example of how you might proceed to overhaul a watch with a Unitas 6497 movement:
Start by disassembling the watch, removing the case and separating the movement from the dial.
Clean the movement using suitable products and a soft-bristled brush. Make sure to clean all parts, including the balance, escapement, shock absorber and rotor.
Check the balance and exhaust to make sure they are in good condition and working properly. You may need to adjust the balance or replace the exhaust if they are damaged or worn.
Check the shock absorber and rotor to make sure they are clean and in good condition. You may need to lubricate the shock absorber if it is worn or has excessive friction.
Check all movement components to make sure they are tight and not damaged. Replace any damaged or worn parts.
Reassemble the movement into the case and adjust it according to the manufacturer's specifications.
Test the watch to make sure it is working properly and that the watch face is displayed accurately.
Clean the watch face and case to complete the review.
It is important to remember that this is just a general example of how you might go about overhauling a watch with a Unitas 6497 movement. You may need to follow a different procedure depending on the condition of the watch and your own technical skills and knowledge.
2024 : Overhauling a Unitas 6497 movement, one of the best-known and most respected mechanical calibres in watchmaking, requires a meticulous and technical process. Here is a general procedure that a professional watchmaker might follow:
1. Disassembling the Watch :
- Start by removing the movement from the watch case.
- Carefully remove the hands and dial to access the mechanism.
2. Complete Disassembly of the Movement :
- Disassemble all parts of the movement, including bridges, wheels, springs and other components.
- It is important to keep the parts organized and identified to ensure correct assembly later.
3. Cleaning the Parts :
- Clean each component individually. This can be done manually or using an ultrasonic cleaning machine.
- It is crucial to be careful with the most delicate parts, such as the balance spring.
4. Inspection of Each Component :
- Examine each part under a magnifying glass or microscope to identify wear or damage.
- Check especially the pivots, rubies and mainspring.
5. Lubrication :
- After cleaning, lubricate the parts according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- Use different types of oils and greases specific to each part of the movement.
6. Assembling the Movement :
- Reassemble the movement, ensuring that all parts are correctly positioned and working as expected.
7. Adjustment and Calibration :
- Adjust the clock speed, amplitude and accuracy.
- It may be necessary to adjust the balance and check the clock's strike.
8. Final Tests :
- Check the power reserve and accuracy of the watch in different positions.
- Ensure that all watch functions are operating correctly.
9. Putting it back in the case :
- Once the movement is working properly, place it back in the watch case.
- Reinstall the dial and hands.
10. Quality Control :
- Carry out a final inspection to ensure that everything is working perfectly.
- Test water resistance, if applicable.
Each step requires specific watchmaking skills and the use of appropriate tools. It is advisable to have this type of overhaul carried out by a professional watchmaker, especially if you have no experience or training in watchmaking. Specific instructions may vary depending on the condition of the movement and individual characteristics of the model.
2025: Overhauling a Unitas 6497 movement is a painstaking process that involves disassembly, cleaning, inspection, lubrication, and assembly. The Unitas 6497 is a robust movement often used in manual mechanical watches, and following the correct procedures is crucial to ensuring its performance. Here’s the step-by-step guide:
1. Preparation
Tools needed :
Watchmaking tweezers.
Screwdrivers suitable for watchmaking.
Ultrasonic cleaning.
Watchmaking oils (Moebius 9010, D5, 9501, etc.).
Soft brushes and work pad.
Jar for parts and organizers.
Magnifying glass or microscope.
Environment :
Work in a clean, dust-free, well-lit area.
2. Disassembly
Removing the watch movement :
Carefully remove the watch case.
Release the clamping mechanism and remove the crown.
Extract the movement from the watch.
Disassembling the dial and hands :
Remove the hands with a suitable remover, protecting the dial.
Remove the dial, exposing the winding mechanism side.
Disassembly of the movement :
Start by removing the barrel and mainspring.
Release the bridges and main components such as the escape wheel, wheels and anchor.
Work on the winding and adjustment mechanism, disassembling the crown wheel and winding mechanism.
3. Cleaning
Metal parts :
Use an ultrasonic cleaning machine with a solution specifically designed for watches.
Sensitive parts :
Delicate components, such as rubies and the hairspring, should be cleaned manually with a soft brush and specific cleaning solution.
Drying :
Make sure all parts are completely dry before proceeding.
4. Inspection
Check components :
Examine all parts for wear or damage.
Inspect rubies, gear teeth and mainspring.
Parts replacement :
Replace any damaged parts with original or compatible quality components.
5. Lubrication
Apply watch oils to critical points:
Shafts and pivots : Use light oil such as Moebius 9010.
Gear teeth : Minimum lubrication with suitable oil.
Escape wheel and anchor : Careful lubrication of the vanes with low friction oil.
6. Assembly
Assemble the wheels and escape wheel.
Reinstall the anchor and check the operation of the mechanism.
Replace the barrel with the mainspring properly reinstalled.
Assemble the bridges and fasteners.
Reconnect the winding mechanism and adjust.
7. Regulation and Adjustments
Use a timing machine to check accuracy.
Adjust the movement to ensure proper amplitude and beat.
8. Final Tests
Full operation :
Wind the movement fully and observe the performance in various positions.
Check the power reserve :
Make sure the movement reaches the specified power reserve (approximately 46 hours).
Reinstall the dial and hands :
Carefully place the hands and dial.
Final assembly :
Replace the movement in the watch case and secure the crown.
Additional Tips
Always keep the parts organized during the process to avoid loss.
Work calmly and patiently to avoid damaging delicate components.
Document the initial state of the movement for future reference.
12 - It was a good interview, thank you very much for your availability.
2023 : You're welcome! It was a pleasure to help you. If you have any further questions or need more information about watchmaking, please feel free to ask. I'll always be here to help.
2024 : Glad I could help! If you have any more questions in the future, whether about watchmaking or anything else, don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for the interesting conversation and see you next time!
2025: It was a pleasure to collaborate on this conversation! I appreciate the excellent questions and I remain available for future discussions on watchmaking or other topics. I wish you much success in your endeavors and, of course, may time always be on your side. See you soon!
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