The word "guilloche" appears in the dictionary with the following definition:
Ornament (decorative element) composed of wavy lines that intersect and intertwine symmetrically.
It is a technique used in various arts; in watchmaking, however, it stands out as one of the most valued among the decorative techniques. Although it is often used to embellish the dial, it can also be applied to movement components, such as the oscillating weight. Today, this technique has become a true signature of the main watchmaking brands. The guilloché lathes used in watchmaking are rare and always centuries old; however, they are always well restored and perfectly functional. Let's explore how they work, as well as the most modern alternatives.
The History of Guilloche: A Timeless Decorative Art in Watchmaking
Guilloché is a highly precise bas-relief engraving technique that dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries and is used on metals and other precious materials to create repetitive decorative patterns. Originally developed for ornamentation on materials such as wood, mother-of-pearl and porcelain, although it preceded watchmaking as a decorative art, this technique is widely recognized for its use in high-end timepieces.
Origin of the Term “Guilloche”
The word guilloche derives from the French guillocher , which means, as we have seen, to decorate with repetitive patterns. There are several theories as to the origin of the term.
Some reports say that the technique was based on the work of a French worker called Guillot, who invented this form of recording.
This explanation is supported by Émile Littré's Dictionnaire de la langue française , which in turn would have taken it from Gilles Ménage's 1750 Dictionnaire étymologique de la langue française .
Other sources, such as Auguste Brachet's Dictionnaire étymologique de la langue française , attribute the invention to a person named Guilloche, associating the term with the technique itself.
The Beginning of Guilloche in Watchmaking
The guilloche technique was incorporated into watchmaking only in the 18th century, initially being applied to watch cases. In 1680, watchmaker Pierre Duhamel, born around 1630 in Blois, France, and settled in Geneva around 1650, created the first piece with a guilloche case. However, it was not until 1786 that Abraham-Louis Breguet, a Swiss master watchmaker, used the technique on a watch dial, becoming one of the first to explore this form of decoration. Breguet introduced iconic patterns such as the clou de Paris , the crémaillère , the flinqué , the grains d'orge and the grains de riz , which became characteristic of his work and, later, of haute horlogerie.
Guilloche Machines and Techniques
The guilloche technique requires the use of specialized lathes, which are mainly divided into circular, linear or tapestry-like pattern lathes. Circular guilloche lathes allow the engraving of precise, repetitive grooves that form geometric patterns such as spirals and waves. By adjusting the machine, the craftsman can create variations in the designs, which result in unique visual effects due to the play of light and shadow. Straight-line guilloche is an additional technique introduced in the late 18th century, allowing the engraving of linear patterns instead of circular ones.
@IPR: demonstration of the use of a circular lathe at the Breguet Boutique in Geneva
Creating patterns requires considerable skill from the craftsman, who must exert the exact pressure to avoid irregularities in the design. Their quality depends on the precise adjustment of the burin in relation to the material, as well as the depth of the grooves.
The Expansion and Decline of Guilloche
During the 19th century, guilloché achieved great prominence in watchmaking, especially at prestigious watch houses such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and, later, Rolex. This decorative technique was used extensively on the dials, cases and other components of watches, becoming a symbol of refinement and exclusivity.
However, in the 20th century, with the advent of mass production and the quartz crisis of the 1970s, the practice of guilloche suffered a sharp decline. The training of new guilloche artisans was gradually replaced by less demanding engraving techniques, leading to the near disappearance of this art.
The Renaissance of Guilloche
In the 1980s, a resurgence of interest in mechanical watchmaking brought a new appreciation for guilloche. This revival was driven by watchmakers such as George Daniels, who valued the craft of traditional watchmaking. Daniels dedicated himself to preserving and revitalizing guilloche, documenting the techniques in his book Watchmaking , where he explained in detail the workings of both circular and linear guilloche lathes.
More recently, watchmakers such as Kari Voutilainen have contributed to the transmission of guilloché, establishing training programmes to ensure that the technique is preserved for future generations. Today, prestigious brands and independent watchmakers use guilloché as a symbol of authenticity and craftsmanship, valuing its complexity and timeless beauty.
Types of Guilloche Lathe
There are several guilloché patterns, achieved using different types of lathes. The image above shows the Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727, whose dial features circular (dial background) and linear (power reserve) guilloché patterns, which are only possible using two different types of guilloché lathes.
Circular Guilloche Lathe
The above figures show a scheme of a circular guilloche lathe, specially constructed for case and dial work. The headstock spindle (Fig. 1 - c), rotates in the headstock, driven by a belt, and is supported on the shaft by two pivots at A. The pattern wheels (Fig. 2 - B) are loosely mounted on the shaft and locked by a pawl (Fig. 2 - C), fixed to the spindle pulley and engaging with the retaining plate (Fig. 2 - D). The headstock is pressed towards part E of Fig. 2, by the spring F, so that the selected pattern wheel rests against the end of part E of Fig. 2. As the shaft rotates, the frame also oscillates from side to side, as the wave lobes on the periphery of the pattern wheel pass over part E of Fig. 2.
Linear Guilloche Lathe
Another type of traditional lathe – the linear lathe – has a more compact shape, although it operates in a similar way. It mainly produces rectilinear patterns.
The following video shows the entire guilloche engraving process, followed by enameling and polishing of a simple metal plate. You can see a linear guilloche lathe in action.
Some guilloché lathes have adapters that attach to the workpiece to convert the rotary motion into a straight-line motion. However, a freestanding guilloché lathe offers much greater flexibility. The image above shows a century-old guilloché lathe that can be seen in the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva.
Fig. 3 illustrates the principle of a machine specially constructed for such work as the making of dials. The dial or other workpiece intended for engraving is fixed in zone A, which can be turned by the tangent screw B. The plate C, which holds D, can slide horizontally on the rails in a zigzag motion. Fitted to C is the contact piece T, which engages with the rack R. This rack can be raised and lowered by the calibrated screw W. When the lever H is turned, the assembly A, C, and D is raised and lowered by the screw W; it will also swing horizontally under the pressure of the spring G, pushing the contact piece T against the teeth of the frame.
Linear Guilloche Lathe. Parek Philippe Museum.
Tapestry guilloche lathe
There is less information available about this type of guilloché, as it is also much less common in watchmaking. However, the decoration known as Petite Tapisserie has been one of the fundamental aesthetic elements of Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak collection since 1972.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tapestry Patterns
The tapestry guilloche on the dials of the Royal Oak owes its existence to the engraving machine, also called the "guilloche copying machine", created in 1895 by Maison Lienhard in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It was originally designed to elaborately decorate pocket watches, something that hand engraving could no longer achieve.
Guilloché tapestry combines three techniques: engraving, where the material is carved; guilloche, which creates geometric patterns; and pantograph, which copies the pattern from a matrix at various scales. In the case of the Royal Oak, the pattern is formed by small truncated pyramids, separated by dotted diamonds. In 1999, the Grande Tapisserie appeared , which increases the size of the pyramids, and in 2001, the Mega Tapisserie was introduced, intended for the Royal Oak Offshore model. The engraving machine uses two rotating plates: the first with the enlarged pattern of the tapestry and the second with the dial. A tracer runs over the pattern on the first plate, while a burin reproduces the movements on the dial, creating the reliefs of the tapestry. This process requires great skill from the craftsman, who adjusts the machine manually to obtain the desired result.
The following videos show two tapestry guilloché lathes, the first at the Patek Philippe museum and the second at the EPHJ, both in Geneva.
Guilloche wheel with tapestry patterns - Patek Philippe Museum Geneva
Guilloche wheel with tapestry patterns from the company Comblémine SA present at EPHJ 2024
Different types of pattern
There are many guilloché patterns, here we present the example of the Breguet watch with reference 3100 which features 7 different types of patterns, and then some of the best known patterns.
Clous de Paris on main subdial
Circular satin on the hour subdial
Sauté piqué (or Piqué relevé ) on the minute dial
Vieux Panier in the upper half of the subdial at “9”
Flamed decor on the lower half of the subdial at “9”
Diamond points (or Pavé de Paris ) on the subdial at “3”
Circular grain d'orge on the small seconds subdial at “6” (and on the rotor)
Patterns usually have different names given to them depending on their shape and size, here are some:
Clous de Paris Also known as hobnail in English, it is made up of small raised dots in the shape of a pyramid, which create a textured pattern. This design is often used on dials, offering an effect of depth and a sophisticated look.
Satiné circularire A circular pattern with thin parallel lines that usually appears around the dial or on the hour circle, providing an elegant and classic touch.
Sauté piqué or Piqué relevé Consists of small raised dots that form a discreet relief. This pattern is common in dial details, such as minute circles, to create a surface with a refined texture.
Vieux Panier Also known as "old basket weave," this pattern mimics the woven texture of a basket. This complex and visually appealing pattern is used to add an intricate and traditional texture to dials or subdials.
Décor flamme Characterized by curved spiral lines, which create a flame-like effect. This pattern is highly appreciated for its visual dynamism, especially on dials and larger surfaces.
Pointes de diamant or Pavé de Paris Formed by small diamond-like dots, this pattern offers a shiny and textured effect, ideal for subdials and small areas where you want to highlight a detail.
Grain d'orge circularire Known as "barley grain", this pattern consists of small ellipses or curved lines arranged in circles, often used on seconds subdials and oscillating weights.
Guilloché Flinqué A pattern in which the guilloché is made on an enamelled surface, creating a striking visual effect that is much appreciated in haute horlogerie pieces.
Wavy or Vagues Inspired by ocean waves, this pattern features wavy lines that create a mesmerizing effect, used to bring dynamism to the dial.
Rayons de Soleil Also known as "sunburst", this radial pattern resembles rays of sunlight that extend from the center to the edges of the dial. It is very common and gives a brilliant effect when reflected in light.
The guilloche artist needs great dexterity to stop the movement in time, preventing the burin from damaging the rest of the pattern. Sometimes, three or four passes in the same groove are necessary to reach a depth that catches the light and produces a mirror-like effect on the piece.
Guilloche - alternative methods
1. Artisanal Guilloche
This is the technique we have described so far, in which the craftsman controls the machine, guiding the cut to create symmetrical, interlocking patterns, such as waves, spirals or rays. This process is slow and requires a lot of precision and experience, as one mistake can ruin the entire work.
Advantages : Handcrafted guilloché adds a touch of exclusivity and authenticity to the piece. Every detail is meticulously crafted, resulting in a unique texture and depth. This method is seen as an expression of true craftsmanship and is highly prized by collectors of fine watchmaking.
Disadvantages : It is a time-consuming and expensive process, as it depends on the manual skill and time invested by the artisan. Large-scale production is not feasible, which makes pieces with handmade guilloche rarer and more expensive.
2. CNC Guilloche
CNC guilloche uses a computer numerically controlled machine to replicate complex patterns with high precision. In this method, the guilloche design is programmed into specific software, and the CNC machine performs the precise cutting by moving the tool over the surface of the metal to create the desired pattern.
Advantages : This process is faster and more efficient than the manual method, allowing for mass production with a high level of consistency and precision. It is ideal for brands that want to maintain the quality and complexity of guilloche patterns, but without the time and cost associated with manual work.
Disadvantages : Although the CNC technique produces precise and detailed patterns, it lacks the unique touch of the manual technique, and collectors of handcrafted pieces may not value the CNC method as much because they consider it less “authentic”.
3. Guilloche by Stamping
Stamping is a mass reproduction technique where the guilloche pattern is molded using a press or die, applying high pressure to the metal surface. The die already contains the desired pattern, which is transferred to the metal quickly and efficiently.
Advantages : This method allows you to produce guilloche patterns quickly and in large quantities, with lower production costs. It is widely used in watches in the more affordable range, while maintaining a pleasing aesthetic level.
Disadvantages : The depth and detail of the pattern are inferior to the hand-crafted and CNC methods. The stamping technique does not create the same effect of depth and variation of reflections as the manual technique, and is less valued by collectors and experts.
4. Laser Guilloche
Laser guilloche engraving is a modern technique that uses a laser beam to engrave patterns into metal. The process is digitally controlled and allows for creative flexibility, as the laser can create very precise and intricate patterns that would be difficult to achieve by hand.
Advantages : The laser method is very precise and offers great versatility, allowing you to quickly create personalized and complex patterns. In addition, it is a clean technique, without the need for physical contact with the metal, which reduces wear and increases the durability of the equipment.
Disadvantages : Laser engraving does not produce the same depth effect as hand-made guilloche, as the engraving takes place on shallower surfaces. Some fans of the traditional technique may consider this method to be a less valuable imitation of hand-made guilloche.
Comparison between Techniques
Technique | Detail and Depth | Exclusivity | Cost | Ideal For |
Handmade | High | High | High | Fine watchmaking |
CNC | High | Moderate | Medium-High | Luxury series production |
Stamping | Moderate | Low | Low | Mass production |
Laser | Elevated (less deep) | Low | Average | Custom patterns |
The new artisans of Guilhoché
Guilloché, an artisanal metal engraving technique, is prized in fine watchmaking for its ability to create depth and unique reflections on dials. Newer brands such as Atelier Wen, together with master watchmakers such as Kari Voutilainen, Joshua Shapiro, David Walter and Andreas Strehler, are keeping this tradition alive, employing intricate patterns and manual processes to highlight the beauty and exclusivity of watches, where each line is crafted with precision to capture and reflect light harmoniously.
Wen Studio
Guilloche Work : Atelier Wen is a brand that combines innovation with the preservation of artisanal techniques, standing out in Asia for reintroducing the guilloche tradition. In collaboration with master Cheng Yucai, the only guilloche expert in China, Atelier Wen uses a manual guilloche lathe to create intricate patterns on the dials of its watches.
"Fish tails" pattern - Atelier Wen Cheng Yucai works the metal by hand, dedicating around 8 hours to each dial to achieve a perfect texture and a symmetrical pattern, such as écailles de poisson , which means fish scales, and which produces an effect of depth and movement as the light falls on the dial.
Notable model : The Perception is one of the brand’s most iconic models, where artisanal guilloché meets contemporary design. The guilloché pattern gives the dial a soft, detailed glow, while maintaining the balance between tradition and modernism. The Perception showcases Cheng’s technique with the refinement of a dial that suits a young audience, with steel finishes and subtle tones, but with all the richness of artisanal guilloché.
Perception - Atelier Wen
Kari Voutilainen
Guilloche Work : Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected in the art of guilloché, working with guilloche lathes and restored machines that allow for meticulous and unique execution. Each dial created by Voutilainen is the result of rare mastery, where the artisans master patterns and symmetry to perfection, using hand tools to achieve a refined and luminous texture. Voutilainen creates guilloche with patterns such as concentric waves, spirals and sunrays, which transform each piece into a work of art.
Notable model : On the Voutilainen 28SC , guilloché takes center stage on the dial, with wave patterns expanding radially. This effect creates a fascinating play of light, changing in appearance as the wrist moves. The 28SC combines handcrafted guilloché with a polished case finish and an in-house movement made entirely by Voutilainen, marking the watch as a piece of fine timepieces where guilloché is the central expression.
Joshua Shapiro
Guilloche work : In the United States, Joshua Shapiro is one of the few artisans dedicated to hand guilloche, using guilloche lathes to create dials of unparalleled complexity. Shapiro is known for using multiple layers and types of guilloche on a single dial, achieving a depth effect that captures the light in a unique way. Each watch takes many hours of work, where precision and control of the tool are essential to create harmony between the patterns.
Notable Model : The Resurgence is one of Shapiro's most iconic models, featuring a guilloché dial in multiple patterns, such as barleycorn ( Grain d'orge). and the Shapiro Infinity weave . These layers of guilloche weave change hue and depth as the light moves, creating a true infinity of reflections, which is why this style is so beloved. The construction of the Infinity Series highlights the skill and patience of Shapiro, whose mastery of hand guilloche is evident in every detail.
Andreas Strehler
Guilloche work : Andreas Strehler is a Swiss watchmaker renowned for integrating guilloché work into his watches using CNC in a harmonious way. The techniques he employs make guilloché work virtually indistinguishable from hand-made versions, thanks to a flat-edge milling machine that minimizes production marks. An interesting detail is that he adds a deeper border around the guilloché areas, eliminating traces of CNC. This precision brings his work closer to perfection, similar to that of masters such as Kari Voutilainen, who also uses CNC for finishing.
Sauterelle à Lune Perpétuelle 2M by Andreas Strehler Notable model : The Sauterelle à Lune Perpétuelle 2M by Andreas Strehler combines extreme precision with exquisite handcrafted guilloché work on the dial. This watch, which holds the world record for the most accurate indication of the phases of the moon, requires only one day’s adjustment every 2.045 million years. This remarkable precision is achieved by the remontoir d’égalité . In addition to its unique engineering, the delicate guilloché adds an aesthetic dimension to the dial, reflecting the technical complexity of this model.
The decoration of watches using guilloché is of great interest to watchmakers. Although it is not relevant to the functioning of the watch, it contains within itself the entire essence of watchmaking. Fortunately, there is a slow resurgence of guilloché work adapted to watches and fortunately old lathes are highly valued, which allows them to be preserved for many more centuries. IPR will have news in this field soon, keep an eye on our communication channels and subscribe to the IPR newsletter so you don't miss out on the news:
Commentaires