The history of Patek Philippe, since its foundation in 1839, has been marked by a continuous search for perfection, precision and innovation in the field of watchmaking. Recognized worldwide as one of the most prestigious manufacturers of luxury watches, the Swiss brand has managed to combine artisanal tradition with technical advances over the centuries, preserving the excellence and prestige that have always characterized it.
The Origins of Patek Philippe (1839-1877)
The beginnings of Patek Philippe date back to the meeting between Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish nobleman who had taken refuge in Switzerland, and François Czapek, a watchmaker of Czech origin. In 1839, the two decided to found Patek, Czapek & Cie in Geneva with the aim of creating high-quality watches for a discerning clientele. The collaboration between Patek and Czapek ended in 1844, but that same year Patek met Jean-Adrien Philippe, a French watchmaker who had revolutionised the watchmaking industry with the invention of the keyless winding system.
In 1845, the company adopted the name Patek & Cie and in 1851, after Philippe formally joined as a partner, it was renamed Patek, Philippe & Cie. This period marked the beginning of a new era for global watchmaking. Philippe’s patented keyless winding and time-setting system allowed the wearer to adjust the watch without the need for a separate key, an innovation that came to define the standards of fine watchmaking.
During the Great Exhibition in London in 1851, Queen Victoria of England was enchanted by Patek Philippe watches and purchased a model. This event, in addition to solidifying the brand’s reputation among European nobility, secured Patek Philippe’s place among the most exclusive watchmakers of the time. The company quickly began to cater to an aristocratic and royal clientele, who appreciated not only the precision of its mechanisms, but also the aesthetic beauty of its creations.
Expansion and Technical Advances (1878-1931)
In the years that followed, Patek Philippe continued its path of innovation and expansion. In 1868, the brand reached a new milestone by creating the first Swiss wristwatch, for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary. This creation was a response to the growing demand for wearable timepieces, which were beginning to gain popularity among women of high society. The manufacture of wristwatches demonstrated the company’s ability to anticipate trends and adapt to changing consumer preferences.
Between 1878 and 1931, Patek Philippe established itself as a leader in the manufacture of high-complication watches. In 1881, the company registered a patent for a precision regulator, and in 1889, it obtained another patent, this time for a perpetual calendar mechanism for pocket watches.
In 1902, he applied for a patent for the first dual chronograph. Patek Philippe not only raised the bar for watchmaking, it also played a key role in defining modern concepts of fine watchmaking – something that is often taken for granted today. It is therefore always a challenge to properly acknowledge the merit of pioneers.
During this period, the brand also began to explore the creation of highly complex timepieces, such as the "Duke of Regla", a pocket watch with Westminster chimes, completed in 1910.
In 1916, Patek Philippe produced the first complicated ladies' wristwatch with a five-minute repeater, No. 174 603.
In 1923, he launched the first split-seconds chronograph, a chronograph with two central seconds hands, one superimposed on the other: the chronograph hand and the split-seconds hand. The latter can be stopped independently of the former for intermediate readings.
In 1925, Patek Philippe made history by creating its first perpetual calendar wristwatch, the No. 97 975. This groundbreaking timepiece was a demonstration of the brand’s extraordinary technical talent, capable of developing highly sophisticated complications in a wrist format. The perpetual calendar, one of the most complex functions in watchmaking, automatically adjusts the days of the month, as well as leap years, without the need for manual correction.
In 1927, James Ward Packard, one of the greatest watch collectors of his time, received his extraordinary Patek Philippe astronomical pocket watch, known as the “Packard”, No. 198 023. This pocket watch, specially commissioned by Packard, featured impressive astronomical complications, such as a moon phase display and other advanced celestial functions. This model stood out not only for its technical complexity, but also for its aesthetic beauty, reflecting Patek Philippe’s commitment to combining precision engineering with elegant design. The “Packard” remains an iconic piece in the history of watchmaking to this day.
A New Era of Management and Continuity (1932-1988)
In the 1930s, brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern made a significant investment in Patek, Philippe & Cie, securing the future of the prestigious Swiss watchmaking company. The Stern family, already involved in the production of high-quality watch dials, recognised the brand’s potential and decided to contribute to its growth. That same year, Patek Philippe launched the first model in the iconic Calatrava collection, which would become a timeless symbol of the brand.
One of the most notable achievements of this era was the creation of the "Graves", the super-complicated pocket watch commissioned by Henry Graves Jr. in 1933. This watch, consisting of 24 complications, held the title of the most complicated watch in the world for over 50 years.
This period was also marked by the introduction, in 1941, of the regular production of wristwatches with a perpetual calendar, a novelty in the watchmaking market.
During the 1940s and 1950s, Patek Philippe established itself as one of the most awarded brands for the precision of its watches, winning a record number of first prizes at the Geneva Observatory competitions. In 1949, the company registered a patent for the Gyromax balance, which further improved the precision of its movements.
Investing in the Future (1950-1988)
Throughout the second half of the 20th century, Patek Philippe continued to pioneer the development of new calibres and movements.
In 1953, it launched its first self-winding movement, the calibre 12-600AT, marking an extremely significant advance in the field of watchmaking.
This innovative movement used the rotation of an oscillating weight to wind its real spring, eliminating the need for manual winding. With an 18-carat gold rotor and refined finishes, this calibre became a benchmark of excellence in the industry, combining technical precision with the brand’s aesthetic tradition.
In 1956, Patek Philippe achieved another important milestone in the history of watchmaking by manufacturing the first fully electronic watch. This technological breakthrough represented a revolution in timekeeping, integrating electronic components to ensure unprecedented precision, eliminating the need for traditional mechanical parts.
In 1958, Henri Stern, son of Charles Henri Stern, became chairman of the company, ensuring the continuity of family management. Under his leadership, Patek Philippe continued to develop technical innovations, such as time zone watches and ultra-thin movements. One of the most notable launches of this period was the Nautilus collection in 1976, a luxury sports model that would become an icon of the brand.
In 1962, Patek Philippe set a world record for precision in a mechanical watch with its tourbillon movement at the prestigious Geneva Observatory.
In 1968, Patek Philippe launched the first Golden Ellipse model , Ref. 3548, introducing a distinctive and elegant shape to the world of watchmaking. Inspired by the golden ratio, the Golden Ellipse’s design combined the geometry of a circle and a rectangle, resulting in a unique and harmonious aesthetic that quickly became iconic. The Ref. 3548 was celebrated for its refined simplicity and timeless sophistication, highlighting Patek Philippe’s ability to create timepieces that transcend trends while remaining relevant and desirable through the decades.
A Future Marked by Mechanical Supremacy (1989-2019)
In 1976, Patek Philippe revolutionized the luxury sports watch market with the launch of the Nautilus Ref. 3700/1 , designed by the now renowned Gérald Genta. With its distinctive stainless steel case inspired by a ship’s porthole, the Nautilus combined elegance and robustness, characteristics rarely seen in sports watches at the time. The Ref. 3700/1 instantly became an icon, redefining the concept of luxury watches by introducing a sophisticated sports piece that could be worn in both casual and formal settings. To this day, the Nautilus remains one of Patek Philippe’s most sought-after and celebrated models.
In 1977, Patek Philippe introduced the ultra-thin automatic calibre 240, a true masterpiece of watchmaking engineering, which was patented for its technical innovation. This revolutionary movement, just 2.53 mm thick, incorporated an off-centre micro-rotor in 22-carat gold, allowing the minimum thickness to be maintained without sacrificing precision or power reserve. Calibre 240 became a benchmark for elegant and sophisticated watches, enabling Patek Philippe to create ultra-thin models that combine the highest precision with exquisite design. This calibre continues to be used in several of the brand’s complications, and is a symbol of Patek Philippe’s technical excellence.
In 1985, the Ref. 3940 was launched , an ultra-thin perpetual calendar watch that quickly became one of the brand’s most iconic models. Measuring just 9 mm thick, this watch combined a highly sophisticated complication with an elegant and understated design, allowing wearers to display the date, day, month, leap year and moon phases without the need for adjustments until 2100. The Ref. 3940 was celebrated for its technical innovation and aesthetic perfection, establishing itself as one of the most admired models among collectors and enthusiasts of fine watchmaking.
In 1989, to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary, the brand launched the extraordinary Calibre 89, a watch that, with 33 complications, set a record as the most complicated portable watch of all time. This remarkable feat of watchmaking combined some of the most advanced and rare functions, including a perpetual calendar, moon phases, equation of time and even a star map. Calibre 89 was the culmination of five years of research and development, reflecting Patek Philippe’s dedication to innovation and technical excellence. This unique piece solidified the brand’s position as the undisputed leader in the world of fine watchmaking.
In 1993, Philippe Stern took over as President of Patek Philippe, continuing the Stern family’s legacy of leadership at the company. Under his leadership, the brand further cemented its reputation as one of the most prestigious and innovative in luxury watchmaking. Philippe Stern was responsible for taking Patek Philippe to new heights, fostering the creation of highly complicated timepieces and strengthening the artisanal tradition. During his tenure, the brand also expanded its global presence and launched the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, reinforcing the link between the past and the future of watchmaking.
In 1993, Patek Philippe launched the Gondolo collection , inspired by Art Deco design and the brand’s historic tradition of “Gondolo chronometer watches” from the early 20th century. The collection, featuring the elegant Ref. 5024 , features a rectangular case and striking geometric lines, reflecting the classic and timeless style of Art Deco. The Ref. 5024 stood out for its balance between sophistication and simplicity, paying homage to traditional watchmaking forms while maintaining a commitment to technical innovation. The Gondolo collection continues to be a favorite among watch lovers who appreciate distinctive and refined design. Patek Philippe obtained the patent for the Annual Calendar mechanism in 1996, with the introduction of the reference 5035J.
This innovative mechanism allows the watch to automatically recognise months with 30 and 31 days, requiring manual adjustment only once a year, in February. The Ref. 5035J was the first wristwatch in the world to incorporate this function, combining practicality and technical complexity in an elegant piece. The Annual Calendar quickly became one of the hallmarks of modern watchmaking, cementing Patek Philippe’s position as a leader in innovation in fine watchmaking.
Opened in 1996, Patek Philippe’s headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates houses several stages of the production of its watches, from design and development to final assembly.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5065A, launched in 1998, is a landmark piece in the Aquanaut collection. This model, with a 38 mm stainless steel case, combines the robustness and practicality of a sports watch with the sophistication of haute horlogerie. The durable and innovative tropical rubber strap, combined with its contemporary design with guilloché dial and luminous markers, highlight the watch’s versatility. With water resistance to 120 metres and a high-precision automatic movement, the Ref. 5065A reflects the balance between functionality and elegance that characterises Patek Philippe creations.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 4910/10A from the Twenty~4 collection was launched as a tribute to the modern woman, combining elegance and practicality in a timeless design. With a rectangular stainless steel case and an integrated bracelet, the model features a diamond-encrusted dial, lending sophistication and understated sparkle. Powered by a quartz movement, the Ref. 4910/10A is designed to accompany women on all occasions, from everyday wear to formal events, reflecting Patek Philippe’s commitment to creating timepieces that are both refined and functional.
Patek Philippe launched the Star Calibre 2000 to celebrate the arrival of the new millennium in 2000, as a demonstration of technical excellence and innovation. This extraordinary pocket watch features 21 complications, including a tourbillon, a minute repeater and a moon phase display. One of its most impressive features is the Westminster chime, which mimics the chiming of the bells of Big Ben. The Star Calibre 2000 is a masterpiece of watchmaking that exemplifies Patek Philippe’s commitment to tradition and technical progress, cementing its reputation as one of the world’s most respected watchmakers.
In 2001, he launched the Sky Moon Tourbillon, Ref. 5002, the most complicated wristwatch in his collection. This piece is a masterpiece of watchmaking, with a two-face design, one on the front and one on the back. The front features a traditional dial, while the back reveals astronomical complications.
Its main features include the tourbillon, the perpetual retrograde calendar, the moon phases, sidereal time and a celestial map showing the position of the stars. The Sky Moon Tourbillon, Ref. 5002, has 12 complications.
The opening of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva took place in 2001, a landmark moment for watch enthusiasts and collectors from around the world. Housed in a historic building in the Plainpalais district, the museum houses one of the world’s most remarkable collections of watches, with examples dating back to the 16th century.
The collection displays creations by Patek Philippe itself, as well as antique watches from various manufacturers and representative pieces of European and Swiss watchmaking. In addition to watches, the museum also features timekeeping instruments and artefacts related to the history of watchmaking, offering a comprehensive overview of the evolution of this craft.
Patek Philippe introduced the 10-Day Tourbillon, Ref. 5101P, in 2003. This wristwatch features a hand-wound movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve, making it one of the most remarkable in its category. The tourbillon, visible through the sapphire caseback, demonstrates the brand’s mastery in combining technical innovation with refined aesthetics. The Ref. 5101P features an elegant design, with a rectangular platinum case and classic details that mark it out as a piece of haute horlogerie.
In 2005, Patek Philippe launched the Annual Calendar Ref. 5250, which was the first watch to feature an escape wheel made from a revolutionary silicon-based material. This technological breakthrough represented a significant shift in the use of new materials in watchmaking, specifically in the Swiss lever escapement system.
Silicon, which is highly resistant to wear and is immune to magnetic fields, has improved the precision and durability of the movement. The watch with the Ref. 5250 retained the classic features of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, but this innovation cemented the brand’s role as a pioneer in introducing new technologies into mechanical watchmaking.
The renovation of the Patek Philippe salons on rue du Rhône in Geneva was completed in 2006, marking a new chapter in the brand’s presence in the city. Located in one of Geneva’s most prestigious areas, these salons have been transformed to provide an even more sophisticated and welcoming environment for their visitors. The space offers an elegant showcase for Patek Philippe creations, highlighting the brand’s commitment to excellence and watchmaking tradition.
In 2006, Patek Philippe Advanced Research launched the Spiromax balance spring, made from a revolutionary silicon-based material. This innovation represented a major step forward in the technological advancement of watchmaking, with silicon providing significant advantages such as wear resistance and immunity to magnetic fields, improving the precision and durability of movements.
Two years later, in 2008, Patek Philippe Advanced Research introduced the Pulsomax escapement, also made of silicon. This new innovation further reinforced the brand’s role as a leader in incorporating new technologies into watchmaking, bringing substantial improvements to the efficiency of mechanical movements.
In 2009, Thierry Stern took over as President of Patek Philippe, marking the continuation of the family leadership of the company. With Thierry Stern at the helm, the brand has maintained its focus on innovation and the preservation of watchmaking tradition, ensuring Patek Philippe’s future as one of the world’s leading luxury watchmakers.
The same year saw the launch of the CH 29-535 PS movement, which is integrated into the Ladies First Chronograph, a flagship piece in the brand’s women’s collection. This movement marked a significant step forward, demonstrating Patek Philippe’s ability to create sophisticated mechanical movements for ladies’ watches, combining elegance with precision engineering.
In 2011, Patek Philippe launched the Oscillomax set, which combines the Spiromax balance spring, Pulsomax escapement and GyromaxSi balance, all with silicon components. This innovation demonstrated the brand’s long-term vision of applying new technologies to improve the precision and reliability of its watches.
Also in 2011, the Ladies First Minute Repeater, Ref. 7000R, was introduced, a watch that reinforces Patek Philippe’s dedication to creating complications for women. This minute repeater is one of the most prestigious complications in watchmaking, demonstrating the technical excellence and aesthetic beauty that characterize the brand.
Patek Philippe continued its tradition of international exhibitions with the 2012 Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Dubai. This event gave collectors and enthusiasts the opportunity to see a wide range of the brand’s iconic pieces up close, celebrating the art of watchmaking in grand style.
In 2013, Munich hosted the second “Watch Art Grand Exhibition”, where Patek Philippe showcased its rich heritage and its latest creations. These events are a way for the brand to get closer to its customers and share its passion for watchmaking with a global audience.
In 2014, Patek Philippe celebrated its 175th anniversary with a special collection of commemorative watches that paid tribute to the brand’s long history of innovation and preservation of the work of its artisans. These models have become collector’s items.
In 2015, the brand launched the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Ref. 5524G, a watch that combined Patek Philippe’s classic tradition with a bolder, more modern design. This model stood out for offering a dual time zone function, very useful for frequent travelers.
In 2016, Patek Philippe introduced the Grandmaster Chime, Ref. 6300G, to its current collection. This masterpiece watch features multiple complications, such as a minute repeater, tourbillon and several other functions, making it one of the brand’s most complex watches.
In the same year, the World Time Chronograph, Ref. 5930G, was launched, a model that combines the chronograph complication with the world time function, allowing the user to monitor the time in several time zones simultaneously, standing out for its usefulness and refined design.
In 2017, Patek Philippe Advanced Research unveiled the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G, a model that introduced technological innovations such as a time zone adjustment system made of silicon.
The 2017 Watch Art Grand Exhibition took place in New York, where Patek Philippe showcased its most prestigious pieces and told the brand’s story through a series of immersive exhibitions and educational events.
In 2018, Patek Philippe launched the World Time Minute Repeater, Ref. 5531R, which stood out as the first minute repeater that also displays the local time anywhere in the world. This watch combines two prestigious complications.
Also in 2018, the brand launched the Twenty~4 Automatic, Ref. 7300, to expand its line of automatic watches for women. This model was designed for modern women, offering both elegance and functionality, a combination of classic design and automatic movement.
In 2019, Patek Philippe introduced the Alarm Travel Time, Ref. 5520P-001, which brought a new complication to the world of travel watches by integrating an alarm function with travel time, making it one of the most practical and sophisticated models for travelers.
The same year saw the launch of the Calatrava Weekly Calendar, Ref. 5212A-001, a watch featuring a unique weekly calendar function, reinforcing Patek Philippe’s commitment to innovation in the design and functionality of its watches.
Finally, in 2019, Singapore hosted the "Watch Art Grand Exhibition", an event that celebrated Patek Philippe's watchmaking and art, allowing Asian audiences to get up close and personal with the brand's creations and heritage through exclusive exhibitions and displays.
Yesterday, 18.10.2024, Patek Philippe launched the new Cubitus collection , its first all-new line in over 25 years. Comprising three distinct models, the collection reinterprets the sporty-elegant style, featuring cases with square bezels with rounded corners, a design innovation that preserves the brand’s prestige.
Patek Philippe is undoubtedly one of the brands that has contributed most to raising the standards of watchmaking throughout its history, and remains an icon in both technical and aesthetic terms to this day. Since its founding, the brand has stood out for its ability to innovate, combining mechanical precision and beautiful design, which makes it unique in the world of watchmaking.
One of the great secrets of its success lies in its strong bond with its craftsmen. The brand recognises the value of manual work and its impact on the creation of exceptional timepieces. It fosters close collaboration with master watchmakers, preserves traditional techniques and embraces technological innovations. This commitment to craftsmanship is one of the reasons why Patek Philippe continues to be a reference in the sector.
Its museum, considered one of the best in the world in the field of watchmaking, reflects this history and dedication. Each visit to the museum offers a unique opportunity for any enthusiast or specialist to increase their knowledge of the evolution of watchmaking and admire examples that represent the best of the art and science of watchmaking. Patek Philippe’s legacy goes far beyond watchmaking, and is essential to the preservation and transmission of the world’s watchmaking heritage.
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