Ultra-thin watches are neither works of art nor mere practical instruments. They are somewhere in between: they are pure displays of technical virtuosity. At some point in their careers, perhaps out of creative zeal, or perhaps to demonstrate to the world the extent of their technical mastery, the most notable master watchmakers decide to create unique pieces whose complexity and perfection reach levels never before achieved.
In the history of watchmaking, there have been several periods when watchmakers have seriously dedicated themselves to radically reducing the thickness of watch movements, and therefore the watches themselves. This is a race to create the thinnest watches. Konstatin Chaykin’s watch is an impressive 1.65mm thick. This year, three ultra-thin watches were launched, including the thinnest tourbillon ever, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon.
List of the latest 12 ultra-thin watches
1.65mm: ThinKing Konstantin Chaykin (2024)
1.7mm: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 104081 COSC (2024)
1.75mm: Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari (2022)
1.8mm: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 103611 (2022)
2mm: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon (2024)
2mm: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept G0A45502 (2018)
3.6mm: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Squelette (2014)
3.64mm: Piaget Altiplano 38mm 900P (2014)
3.95mm: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic (2018)
4.05mm: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Jubilee (1990)
4.1mm: Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-Fine 1955 (2010)
4.3mm: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P (2017)
1.65 MM
This is one of those rare cases where a number suffices as a title. 1.65 mm — that’s the thickness of the new ThinKing ultra-thin mechanical watch, designed and developed by Konstantin Chaykin. The story of this development dates back to about twenty years ago, when Chaykin got his hands on an old ultra-thin movement from a Bagnolet pocket watch with cylinder escapement, signed by Aug. Golay Leresche à Genève, dating back to the 19th century. This movement was approximately one millimeter thick, not counting the height of the hour wheels and the center. Although Chaykin declined the offer to buy it, he continues to admire the watchmaking excellence of this piece, especially considering the technological limitations of the time.
THE BEGINNING OF THE PROJECT
If such a remarkable example of watchmaking skill was created almost two centuries ago, why wouldn’t a modern watchmaker, equipped with the advantages of today’s technology, attempt something similar? This logical thought didn’t immediately inspire Chaykin, who was busy with other projects. It wasn’t until 2023, when a client challenged him to create an ultra-thin watch, that the watchmaker decided to accept the challenge and begin developing what would become the ThinKing .
AN EXCLUSIVE PIECE IN WRISTMON FORMAT
One of Chaykin's first decisions was that his ultra-thin watch would be part of his iconic Wristmons collection, known for its unique and expressive designs. The ThinKing follows the Joker's signature style of display, with separate hour (left) and minute (right) dials forming the character's "eyes." The "mouth" — which in previous models is often represented by the phases of the moon — has been replaced by the brand's logo engraved on the top cover of the watch.
The ThinKing features two 0.35mm thick sapphire crystals, protecting a double dial and maintaining the rigidity of the ultra-thin watch, an essential feature in pieces of this type.
THE PRACTICALITY OF THE ULTRA-THIN WATCH
Chaykin also paid close attention to a recurring problem with ultra-thin watches: practicality. The solution he found was an external carrying case, equipped with mechanisms that allow the watch to be wound and set to the time. When the watch is in the outer case, it also automatically charges. The case, called PalanKing , provides extra protection for the ThinKing while keeping it functional and visually stunning.
Additionally, the outer case helps solve one of the biggest problems with ultra-thin watches: the low rigidity of their cases. Chaykin used special stainless steel to ensure that the ThinKing is strong and durable, and the case design contributes to its increased resistance.
INNOVATIVE INVENTIONS FOR THE ULTRA-THIN WATCH
To create ThinKing , Chaykin developed several innovative technical solutions, for which he applied for three patents. These include an ultra-thin spring barrel and a double balance system with vertical clutch. These elements were crucial in reducing the thickness of the watch movement without compromising its functionality.
Chaykin also invented a special strap for the ThinKing , with flexible titanium supports and elastic inserts, to absorb impacts and protect the watch.
TWO PROTOTYPES FOR THE ULTRA-THIN WATCH
During the development process, two prototypes of the ThinKing were created. The first was made of brass, to allow testing of all parts and ensure that the ultra-thin design worked as expected. The second prototype, made of special stainless steel, represents the near-final version of the watch, which will be officially presented at the Geneva Watch Days in 2024.
AN ULTRA-LIGHT WATCH
In addition to being ultra-thin, the ThinKing is also incredibly lightweight. Weighing just 13.3 grams (without strap), this is one of the lightest watches in the world.
THE FUTURE OF THINKING
Despite the success of the ThinKing , Konstantin Chaykin believes there is still room for improvement in the design. He considers the watch to be a working prototype, but not ready for mass production. However, its creation marks a new stage in the race to create ultra-thin watches, cementing Chaykin as one of the modern masters of watchmaking. The ThinKing , the "King of Thin Watches", is already a milestone in the history of ultra-thin watches.
Technical Sheet
Watch case
Case dimensions: thickness 1.65 mm, diameter 40 mm
Watch weight: 13.3g (without strap)
Material: stainless steel
Glass: two sapphire glass; diameter 10.4 mm, thickness 0.35 mm
Movement
Ultra-thin Caliber K.23-0; manufactured by the Konstantin Chaykin Manufactory; hand-wound or both hand-wound and automatic when using an external carrying case; the movement is integrated into the watch case
Number of rubies: 51
Number of movement parts: 204
Balance unit: Double balance with vertical clutch (patent pending)
Escapement: Swiss lever escapement
Swing frequency: 18,000 alternations per hour
Power reserve: 32 hours; ensured by a single barrel with an ultra-thin design (patent pending)
Functions: Joker display with hour and minute displays
Bracelet
Strap: Specially designed strap made of black alligator leather with elastic inserts and flexible titanium mounts (patent pending)
Buckle
Buckle: Classic stainless steel pin buckle, manufactured by Konstantin Chaykin Manufactory
Outer shipping box
Material: Stainless steel
Case dimensions: 45mm diameter, 5.4mm thick with ThinKing watch inside
Number of pieces in the box: 44
Movement of the outer shipping box
Movement: Caliber K.23-1, manufactured by the Konstantin Chaykin Manufactory
Movement dimensions: 36.7x38.7mm, thickness 2.6mm
Number of rubies: 19
Number of movement parts: 136
Functions: Automatic winding, manual winding and ThinKing watch time setting
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